torsdag den 31. maj 2012

How fortunate I am


Today it seems as modern society is supposed to survive on design and storytelling alone, while outsourcing all manufacturing to lesser fortunate people. These people should then be told, that the way out of the gutter is learning how to be super-effective.




I wonder how long it will take them to start designing and storytelling themselves, and producing our products at the same time? Well... they actually already do. And there will be a price to pay. Since we forgot how to manufacture things for ourselves.




How fortunate I am then, to be able to realize my own designs with my own hands. And while doing so, finding new ways to create. That's kind of effective - and that's how craftsmen always worked.




There's so many things a computer can't do. And there's so many ways to make a product. Maybe it's time to learn something new? Maybe it's time to try other solutions? And maybe it's smart to actually know how things are made before blowing your own trumpet?


-----
(Please feel free to follow my new Depression Crisp series on YouTube.)

onsdag den 25. april 2012

Fear of falter

As a tailor, you're constantly living with the fear of falter. As a matter of fact, I think many of us do.


Some of my happiest moments have often been connected with the process of creating things. To see something evolve from the palm of my hand have always given me a feeling of comfort. My father even told me that the best way to conquer the fear of death itself, was to create things. To do. But not only to do - the important thing was to try to do. To be part in a process of a greater whole. But that's now all lost. At least it seems that way.


A ghost called Obsession With Economic Growth is currently sweeping across our continent, killing every creative thought in sight. It tells us to be more efficient. It tells us to produce more while spending less. It even tells us to hurry up while doing something absolutly genius. Illusions shatter. Our lives become stressful.


It seems the whole idea of working now lays firmly in the act of producing products in the shortest time possible, ruling out all quirks and insecurities whatsoever. No time for creative new ideas. No time for individualization. And absolutely no room to falter.


But I have a problem with all this. I have an uttermost urge to repress this narrow-mindedness. I don't subscribe to the idea of efficient creativity. Neither do I agree on wealth necessarily being monetary. So instead of trying to be perfect, I'm going to embrace my fear and allow myself to falter. Accepting that sometimes doing things wrongly, is one of the most important qualities in my creative process - a quality surely to be treasured and cherished. No matter what others say or do.


A new time is dawning, where I will not fear, but still falter. And that's okay.


----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Falter. "To be unsteady in purpose or action, as from loss of courage or confidence" - or "to be hesitant, week or unsure". (The American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language / Collins English Dictionary)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

søndag den 4. marts 2012

Talent is such a good thing!



Talent is a good thing. And when cultivated and trained with ever so much passion, it can even bring you and others the feeling of true happiness and joy. I think we need that - cultivated talent. I do think achievement matters.

I like when someone excel, in whatever level or field. It somehow makes me believe in the future. In a better world to come.

What I do not understand though, is why we all are supposed to be numb "hardworking consumers", not producing anything slightly concrete. That confuses me a lot. While our politicians are trying their best to save money on anything, they tell us to spend and work more. (And ditch the poor.) That's kind of stupidity galore!

Why shouldn't we all save our hard earned money? Why shouldn't we say no to cheep and truly poor products? Why shouldn't we stop buying until our suppliers rise their quality-bar? And instead use our time on bettering ourselves in those talents we are dealt? Or maybe learn some new ones?

I think true talent lays in being able to create something special to improve yours or others personal environment. Like housewifery. Like punk-rock esthetics. Like knitting or writing - or cooking or making your own clothes. Like singing or doing sports. To be really clever at something. Not consuming. But doing.

I think it's time we realized that we all have talent, but it needs to be cultivated to truly bloom. I believe it's time to say no to cheap tricks and loud and lazy behavior. Now is the time to be creative, and to believe in the future. Let's all use our talent and do something worth the while! We owe it to ourselves.


- Posted by Sten Martin
Bespoke tailor. Designer. Academy tutor.

tirsdag den 27. september 2011

How to drop dry-cleaning chemicals

Hi Sten Martin! Let's just cut to the point. I heard you're an expert in ruining expensive suits...!
If you refer to me doing my laundry at home - yes I do. I wash my suits in my washing machine and let them drip-dry afterwards. Never was a big fan of the dry-cleaner's anyway. But ruin them? No. Absolutely not.




But we all know that suits can't be washed, right? They immediately get ruined!
Well, that's your point of view. Mine is quite different. And none of my suits have been ruined yet. Not by laundering, anyway.

How so?
It's no secret that since I started my "Project 100" exactly 500 days ago, I don't use much of my wardrobe capacity anymore. I only use the clothes I've made myself, and therefore use them quite heavily. That's why it is important for me to be able to wash all of my clothes rather quickly and often, and that's why they finally get torn - simply by wear and tear.

So all your jackets are ruined now...?
Actually no. None of them. A pair of my jeans got ripped. And a shirt...

Let's say I would be persuaded into machine-wash my suits at home, should I do it with my cheaper ones only?
I would say the opposite - do it with the expensive ones! They are probably made in a better quality. But then again, who knows nowadays? Everything seems to be poorer and poorer made... I would try my least used suit first - to perfect my technique - then work my way through the whole wardrobe. The feeling of freshness afterwards, is quite pleasant.

Is there something I should avoid?
I would probably avoid silk satin lapels. If they are by poor and thin quality the crisp look they probably had, can be quite hard to reproduce. Would need some heavy pressing.

And what should I remember?
Four things: 1.The washing-program used should be programmed for wool - i.e. max. 86-90°F (about 30°C) with a lot of water in the container and very little movement. 2. Only use detergent especially made for wool and silk. 3. Do not exceed on spin-drying - max. 1.000 spins pr. min., but probably less. 4. Blow-dry up through the sleeves to shape the sleeves and dry the shoulder pads. Also blow-dry your pockets, if you like a quick result. Just use an ordinary hair-dryer.

Is there a tutorial?
I can make one for you. I like the idea of less people using heavy chemicals.

Thanks! But isn't there chemicals in ordinary detergent?
Maybe some, but I think it's mostly protein-based enzymes, and I use colour- and perfume-free wool detergent. And a small amount of it.

Any last words?
That the hair-dryer can be used as an iron while the jacket's still damp on hanger. It's quite effective! Use it somewhat tilted against the fabric, while holding the fabric taught with your other hand. Don't burn your fingers though.

Ok. Thank you for taking your time!
My pleasure.

----------
Interview with bespoke tailor Sten Martin Jonsson, 27.09.2011